The Fairmont Empress, Victoria, BC (Fine Hotels + Resorts®): Bottom Line Review

Over the holidays last year, I surprised my wife with a weekend trip to Victoria, British Columbia. The goal was to see the famous Christmas lights at Butchart Gardens, soak up Victoria’s seasonal spirit…and check out the historic Fairmont Empress.

This iconic property has watched over Victoria’s Inner Harbour and is instantly recognizable to anyone who’s ever visited the city. Luckily, armed with two Fine Hotels + Resorts® (FHR) credits that we received from our American Express Platinum® cards, we were able to spend the weekend, sample the hotel’s famous high tea, and escape with some cash still in our wallets. And most importantly, we had a great time doing it.

Fairmont Empress Bottom Line Review

We loved our time at the Fairmont Empress, and it’s just the sort of place that makes for a great FHR redemption. The midweek and low-season rates are ideally suited, and we paid almost the same cost as we would have if we’d booked direct. Nearly everything about the property was delightful, oozing historical charm. The service was stellar, the food and drinks excellent, and the room spacious and comfortable. The location is superb. Victoria is one of our favorite Pacific Northwest cities, and this was easily our favorite stay there (so far).   Thumbs up 

• Price: FHR cash prices were ~$420/night for a deluxe room during our stay, so we ended up paying about $120 out of pocket after receiving the $300 Amex credit per night. It’s worth noting that the regular City View rooms were about $75/night cheaper, but I reserved the higher-category room to get upgraded to a harbor view. The FHR rate was almost exactly the same as the direct rate.
• Value: As a Fine Hotels + Resorts credit redemption, it can be terrific. The FHR rate is usually quite similar to the property’s close-in cash rate; during midweek/shoulder season, it can often be covered (or nearly so) by the $300 credit.
• Location: Doesn’t get much better in downtown Victoria. This is quite literally the landmark that the city center revolves around, including many of the city’s main bus routes and those throughout the surrounding area. Everything downtown is within a 5-10-minute walk, and the buses to Butchart Gardens leave from right outside. The inner harbour and sunset views are also quite good because of the location. One thing to be aware of is that during high season, the combination of people, planes, boats, and horse-drawn carriages right outside can create quite a cacophony.
• Room: We booked a Deluxe City View Room and were proactively upgraded to a Harbor View Junior Suite, which I believe was a 4-category upgrade. The ~450 sq ft room was very comfortable, with a sunken living room area that contained a loveseat, chair + desk, wet bar, and (inactive) fireplace. The only downside is that the windows, while having a lovely harbor view, were quite small.
• Parking: Valet parking is CA$53/night, while self-parking is CA$39. There are also numerous public lots within fairly close walking distance that cost half that if you care to make the effort.
• Resort/Destination Fee: Incredibly (for this US-based traveler), none.
• Internet: Very good throughout the hotel.
• Service: Stellar, better than I’ve experienced in a North American hotel in some time. This property appears to be staffed with professionals who take their jobs seriously. Across the board, from the front desk to the restaurants to housekeeping, these are confident, friendly, inquisitive folks who care about what they’re doing and how you experience it. Really, a delightful surprise for such a large property.
• Turndown service: Nightly. Includes fresh filtered water and ice.
• Dining:
  • The Bengal: The Bengal is the hotel’s recently renovated breakfast and dinner outlet. It is simply beautiful inside, with period fans, wood paneling, and a massive, brick fireplace. Huge windows let in good views of the surrounding garden. Both the service and food are excellent. Open for breakfast daily from 6:30 to 11:00 am and dinner from 5:30 to 9:30 pm.
  • The Veranda: Seasonal patio/restaurant/bar with a stellar view of the inner harbor and a fun chocolate fondue service. Despite officially being open only Spring-Fall, while we were there in early-January, they were happily serving folks outside under the heaters.
  • Lobby Lounge: This sumptuously decorated lounge serves the Empress’ famous High Tea daily from 11 am- 4 pm, accompanied by a live pianist. The room, views, fireplaces, tea, and service are all exemplary. That said, the eye-watering price will likely make it a one-time experience for most guests. Reservations are recommended, and essential during peak times.
  • Q at the Fairmont Empress: The hotel’s primary restaurant is located between the Lobby Lounge and The Bengal. The lively, U-shaped bar has good harbor views and tasty cocktails. Currently closed for renovations until mid-April 2026, then open from 11 am – 12 pm daily, with dinner from 5:30 pm – 9:30 pm.

• Spa: There is a massive, ornate spa occupying a good chunk of the building’s “lobby” level (which no longer houses the front desk). All the standard treatments are on offer. Open daily from 9:30 am to 6:00 on, 7 pm on weekends.
• Fitness Room: There is a modest fitness club and pool area located on the ground level. The pool, while fairly small, has a fun ambiance due to the large windows that give the impression that it’s surrounded by gardens.
• Fine Hotel and Resorts Benefits: 
  • Room Upgrade: We booked a Deluxe City View Room and were given a 4-category upgrade to a Harbor View Junior Suite.
  • Free Breakfast: Served at The Bengal. FHR benefits are CA$80 per day for two people, which is reasonable given the menu prices. Once we added the tip, we went over by a couple of dollars.
  • Property Credit: US$100 property. It can be used for valet parking, room service, restaurant charges, etc. We had two FHR stays back-to-back and, as expected, received one property credit to use over both nights.
  • Early Check-in: We didn’t arrive until ~5 pm, so we didn’t find out.
  • Free WiFi
  • Late Checkout: Proactively offered a 4 pm checkout.
  • Welcome Amenity: House-made macarons were left for us inside the room.
  • Accor Points: At the front desk and in the app, I was told I would only earn Accor points on incidental spend while on property. That turned out to be correct. However, the one bright spot is that the ~100 points I earned from the overage at high tea and breakfast served to extend the expiration of the rest of my Accor points.
• Would I stay again?  Absolutely. This is a marvelous, historic property that serves as a delightful home base for a visit to Victoria.

Pros

• Historic property that oozes vintage charm both inside and outside
• Can be an excellent value on Fine Hotels and Resorts stays, with rates near the direct booking price
• Excellent breakfast included in FHR rates
• Food and beverage quality, in general, is very high
• Terrific location overlooking Victoria’s Inner Harbour, an easy walk from just about anything in the city center
• Marvelous service across the board

Cons

• The historic nature of the building leads to smaller rooms that can have odd proportions
• The location is great, as it’s in the center of everything, but during high season, that means a LOT of activity
• Fitness and pool areas, like many of the rooms, are quite small

Image Gallery

Fairmont Empress Junior Suite

The Bengal (breakfast room)

Lobby Lounge (high tea)

Q Restaurant and Bar

Grounds, Fitness Area and Pool

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